The City of Guayaquil
Guayaquil is Ecuador’s largest city and economic hub, covering an area of 344.5 square kilometers. It is also the country’s largest port city. Nearly 2.5 million people live there.
Seafood and music are absolute musts. These two elements give the city a “Caribbean soul.” The climate is humid and tropical.
The city has undergone a massive transformation in recent years thanks to the administration (the mayor). Now you’ll find huge parks and green spaces here, which serve as great places for city residents to relax amid all the stress of big-city life. Notable landmarks include the Malecón 2000 along the banks of the Rio Guayas and, right next to it, the hill “Las Peñas,” where the city was founded.
Guayaquil was founded on July 25, 1538, under the names “Muy Noble” and “Muy Ciudad de Santiago de Guayaquil” by the Spanish conquistador Francisco de Orellana. However, this place had already existed as a small settlement prior to that.
By 1600, the city already had a population of 2,000, and by 1700, that number had grown to over 10,000. In 1687, more than 260 pirates under the command of George d’Hout (English) and Picard and Groniet (French) raided the city. During the raid, 35 pirates were killed and 46 wounded. Among the residents of Guayaquil, 75 were killed and more than 10 wounded. The pirates took the women as concubines. Quito paid a ransom to secure an agreement that the city would not be destroyed or burned down.
In 1709, the English captains Etienne Courtney, Woodes Rogers, and William Dampier joined them with 110 pirates. However, they then ran into trouble due to a yellow fever epidemic.
On October 9, a group of civilians, supported by soldiers from the “Granaderos de Reserva,” overpowered the royal occupiers—largely without bloodshed—and arrested the Spanish leaders. Guayaquil thus declared itself liberated from the Spanish conquerors and became the Free Province of Guayaquil (“Provincia Libre de Guayaquil”). To this day, October 9 is a holiday on which the liberation of Guayaquil is celebrated.
The new “Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport,” ranked as the best airport in South America, is located right next to the international bus station. Today, you can fly from this airport to destinations all over the world. However, as is the case everywhere, not all flights are nonstop. For example, I once flew from Hamburg via Amsterdam to Guayaquil. It was cheaper to fly from Hamburg to Munich, then to Madrid, and finally directly to Guayaquil with “Lan Chile.” The seats were a bit more comfortable (more legroom) than those on the “expensive airlines,” and the food actually had “flavor.”
If you want to visit the Galápagos Islands, Guayaquil is the cheapest way to get there. If you fly there from Quito, you’ll have to stop in Guayaquil anyway, so you’ll end up paying more.
I should probably add that Guayaquil, like most major cities around the world, is full of drivers who pay little attention to pedestrians. The city’s bus system is well-developed and very affordable. If you don’t transfer, you pay only 25 cents, no matter where you’re going. So every time you get on a bus, you give the driver a 25-cent coin (exact change, if possible).
A visit to the “El Gran Terminal Terrestre de Plaza Norte” bus terminal is always worth it. Buses also depart from here to other countries. I once paid just $6 for a trip from Guayaquil to Peru (the border area). The ride took five and a half hours. At almost every stop, “street vendors” get on and try to sell you something—whether it’s chocolate, candy, or even music CDs. This means it never gets boring during the ride.
If you want to take a taxi, you should pay attention to the license plates. Taxis equipped with surveillance cameras have solid orange (slightly yellowish) license plates. Personally, I also take private taxis (not marked as taxis), which are usually cheaper if you agree on the price in advance. However, I don’t recommend this to tourists. There are also “black sheep” among them who make phone calls during the ride, and then “ladrones” (thieves) sometimes get in at the next stop. But if you’re looking for an “adventure,” go right ahead….
One more thing about the parks: I live near a park called “Malecón del Salado.” It’s only a 10-minute walk from my place. I often go there when I’m putting my ideas down on paper. It’s just beautiful there. Right next to it is the University of Guayaquil and some great restaurants.
You shouldn’t miss the museums either: the “Museo Municipal,” “Museo Nahim Isaias,” “MAAC,” and “Presley Northon,” all located in the city center.
I also recommend a walk up “Las Peñas” hill, which is where Guayaquil originated. The colorful houses are beautiful and catch your eye even from a distance. From there, you can see the whole city. It’s only 440 steps up. I always take the steeper stairs along the riverbank, though, and then light up a cigarette at the top—that always throws the younger folks off balance. They’re panting, and I’m breathing calmly, and then I just ask, “What’s the matter?” with a grin on my face…
Another must-see is “Parque de las Iguanas,” a park in the heart of the city that’s teeming with tiny prehistoric lizards (iguanas). It’s a great spot for taking photos.
Huge shopping centers, such as the “Mercado Artesanal,” are well worth a visit. They certainly hold their own when compared to those in Europe. On the contrary, I think they’re simply more beautifully designed. They’re not as cold and commercial as most of the ones I’m familiar with in Germany. They’re much more colorful and filled with exotic plants.
You also absolutely must visit the “Parque Histórico.” It’s one of the highlights if you’re in Guayaquil and interested in the local flora and fauna, as well as the area’s history. A huge area with a wide variety of animals and plants—half zoo, half history and botany museum. Not only did I get an absolutely delicious cup of coffee there, but I also learned how coffee is prepared: not as a powder, but as an extract (liquid) brewed with boiling water.
If you’re in Guayaquil, you should definitely visit “6 de Marzo” Street during the last two months of the year. It’s best to go with someone you know who’s familiar with the city. There, you’ll be amazed by the world-famous “Años Viejos” artworks—papier-mâché figures depicting scenes from all over the world.
And of course, don’t forget to visit the “Bahía,” a market right on the “Malecón 2000” with countless narrow aisles where you can buy just about anything at reasonable prices. But if you’re not careful, you’ll quickly end up paying too much. But that’s the case everywhere in the world. You can find just about anything there, from reading glasses for $2 to stereos and even air conditioners. I shop there regularly, though I’ve gotten pretty good at knowing the prices by now.
If you rent a car, you can also explore the cocoa and banana plantations around Guayaquil.
Well, that’s it for now…
If you’d like to learn more about the city and the country, feel free to contact me.